got some stuff today

variable rpm orbital sander/buffer (its pretty awesome).  a couple of sand paper circles for it.  a vice grip w/ an anvil on it. and a free, complementary schick razor.

harbor freight for the win!  i also bough an air compressor from them, we have a small 1.5 or 2 gallon (i forget) compressor that weve had for a lotta years that has worked well, for stuff like pumping up tires, cleaning stuff with compressed air, etc. but for the air tools and paint gun, you need a lot more volume. otherwise you spray for 3 seconds, wait for a minute.  it gets frustrating.  anyways, harbor freight had a sale and i got one of their 17 gallon compressors.  that should be plenty to do these jobs.

yeah, and for the car. gonna reindex the suspension once again, this time lower (rubbers gotta tuck) and the front was out of whack anyways.  then just fix dents, roll fenders, and paint the car.  oh, and i need to spot procrastinating and make the steering wheel hub adapter fit the momo 6 bolt pattern.  then ill be running the deep dish wheel and an nrg quick release.

updates

cars running great, drove it around a little today (not far from home cause its not registered).  got teh rear window in (using the string wrap around seal trick. this makes the job literally go from about to give up to doing it in 3 minutes.  it was so easy, i might take the windows back out to paint the car, cause i could have them all back in in a short amount of time.

yes, i am going to paint my car soon. white, cause thats what i did the inside, and with no ac, itll stay cooler that way.

heres the direction im going:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pearl-White-Ghost-Auto-Paint-Pigment-Sparkling-PPG-/230645430855?hash=item35b389fa47&item=230645430855&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr#ht_1373wt_1185

http://www.amazon.com/U-POL-S2088-Universal-Urethane-Clear/dp/B004SQUCCS

and some hardener and reducer if needed. one of those bags of powder makes 1-2 quarts of paint. so ill probably use two of those powder packages, and probably two liters of clearcoat and with that the .5l of hardener.  im not sure what the consistency will be like, so im not sure about thinner/reducer.  i dont think ill need it though.

yep, thats a lot of pain, i realize, but its going to be my base coats (color) and my clear coats together as one, cause if you think about it, its just colored clear coat.  then ill buff it with some compound and ill have a good looking paint job for a price that i dont feel like im getting ripped off by.  who knows, i might end up just using one liter of clearcoat, .25l of hardener and a little bit of reducer, which could get me to 2 quarts easily and then that would go with the 2 bags.  and then im going in like $40 total, not bad at all.

but first i gotta fix all those dents.

wire

just snagged a wire out of our robotics room today. probably about 4 gauge.  i just put on two "O" type connectors (ones made for bolting) and wrapped it with electrical tape and a ziptie, cause i know that tape comes off.  i need to get some heat shrink some time.  anyways, im going to run that wire from the starter terminal lug up to the engine bay, where I will attach the MSD ignition to, to power it, and the engine bay mounted tach that I am planning to install.  i want a tach so that I can tune the idle and not have to look at the in car mounted tach while doing it (it is a PITA).  yeah, so im going to get a tach that works with the msd ignitions and run a "Y" off of the msd tach output wire and that should provide signal to both tachs.

Its a street/ track car, and im planning on adjusting it richer whenever i go to the track or hit skyline road for those late night street sessions, to make more power, and then run it leaner during the day for better drivability and gas milage (the engine bogs when running right at low rpms).

yup, thats whats up, trying to put the rear window in too, and ill give the string technique a go soon. then fix some dents, roll fenders, finish sanding sunroof plug, and lower the car a little more. thats whats going to happen soon, and then register it and were back on the road and dangerous.

henrys s12

same thing as the legacy below, nobody builds an S12, so it takes a lot of work and custom parts, and "never-before-been-done-so-I-have-to-take-the-leap-and-do-it"ness

and the cars stupid sick, its clean, runs a naturally KA, and has sick fitment.  i love this car a lot.
http://speedhunters.com/archive/2010/08/28/car-feature-gt-gt-henry-s-s12-not-an-ae86.aspx

heres his blog
http://jumbosandbox.blogspot.com/

one of his build threads
http://www.s-chassis.com/forums/showthread.php?page=103&t=39155

my favorite subie

drift union's legacy. not because its the best looking, of the lowest, or anything like that.  its a decently sick looking DRIFT LEGACY. you dont come across these often.  for me, a huge thing is respect for doing something off the wall.  wether you like the car or not, you have to respect the dude for building an all out drift legacy.
http://wideandlow.wordpress.com/2010/05/27/a-legacy-of-cool/

i think i might end up getting married now, theres potential. (read description)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFt3kgndigU&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFQvSe8Bccg

those/ that sick ef wagon

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2761579
more pictures on there, im lazy though

eg hatch

drove my car today

I drove my car today. it was pretty epic for me, i hadnt driven in a century, give or take a little.

anyways, i nee to buy a dwell meter so i can get the air fuel ratio dialed in and not ruin my eggsaust valves

like dis one heer: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Dwell-Tach-Volt-Analyzer-Actron_9090045-P_N3390_T|GRP2018____

anyways, im pretty psyked about that, and now i just need to make or find a wheel adapted so that i can roll my fenders.

got my car running

got my car running, idles like a gem at about 950-1000 rpms. im pretty happy with that, relly happy to be honest.  well, i still think it might be running a bit lean, so i need to rent one of those tools that you hook up to the exhaust or something so i can tune the air fuel ratio of the exhaust.  but yeah, it runs well.

car running

got my car running, still has a leak somewhere and consequently, i know its still running a little lean but i can get it to idle at 950 rpms and it sounds pretty good.  i made a little catch can out of a little empty urethane paint can and i bought one of those little generic filters and mounted that on top (for pcv venting) and man does that thing vent! before mounting that filter i was like, do i really need to buy one, im sure it will work fine without it. i was wrong. that thing looks like a chimney when the car is running. Man! i totally underestimated the flow of that. at first i though something was broken until i saw where all of the smoke/ steam was coming from.

letdown of the day:
just bough a fender roller off ebay and i tried to mount it up onto my axle studes to roll my fenders/ help fid the dent in my rear right fender and lucky me, the fender roller doesnt work with my bolt configuration.
they say "fits most and 4 bolt lug patterns"-wow, great, just not mine.

and that stupid company porsche, wtf were they thinking?!?! "yeah man, id be a great idea to make a lug pattern that no other car uses" "yeah, that be awesome, that would make us unique". NO!! its a terrible idea and now i have to deal with it, im either going to buy a single hub adapter so i can roll my fenders, or do a lug conversion, which I have been planning but wasnt going to do this soon. i was going to wait until i found a set of nice wheels (which of course wouldnt be the right size) and then do the conversion.

any recommendations? right now im leaning towards just trying to find a used hub/lug adapter somewhere that i can use to make the roller fit.

but im not even as pissed as i would usually be, cause i got the car running today pretty decently.
ill get a vid up when im not lazy (probably wont happen)

just fixed rips and broken missing zippers on my backpack

i wannnnnnnnt

ok, ive never seen an s13 this nice, and now im sold on the car.  i will have one at some point sometime in the future (ok, ill probably never have on) but it just got onto my "one day i will have" list
http://www.canibeat.com/2010/09/slam-musubi-hawaii-strikes-back/

steering rack spacer

the steering rack spacers came with two cool looking red anodized spacers, and two bolt lengths, on is about 40mm and the other 50.  but i think im going to lower the car a little more, and i think i will want more spacing of the steering rack than just those spacers.  so i went to osh today and bought 2 60mm bolts and 2 70mm bolts and 15 washers for extra spacing (though im sure i wont use all of them).  i think this should help prop the steering rack up well and prevent bump steer.

also, ive been pulling out the dents in the front left fender with a little hot glue gun kit. i got it to work relly well twice, but it didnt work well the other times.  its a hit and miss trial to trial type of thing.  anyways, the little plastic things that you glue to the car broke so im going to try to make one out of a washer and a screw. ill pull those dents as much as possible and bondo will take care of the rest.  (i cant get to these dents with a hammer because oil lines are in the way). then ill roll the fenders, put the rear wheels in the front, and get some wider wheels for the back. 225's up front and 245s-255s in the back, depending on what I can find.

 

steering wheel hub

got it today, its meand for a vw but its the right year that has that same spline pattern as my car, or so they say, well see one i try to put it on.  im going to cut off those three bolt hole type stub things and weld on a circular plate that ill drill the momo 6 bolt pattern into.

other than that, i found a couple air leaks in the injection system air box, one is in teh back intake runner which i will fix by tightening once i get the right socket
i fixed one on the side of the airbox with some plastic glue.
plus i got a nascar oil catch can offa ebay, looks pretty good.  ill be making a run to home depot soon to get some hose and fittings for that

i need to put the steering rack spacers i have in the front, put the back windshield in (but i might to lexan) and finish sanding down the sunroof plug and tehn pain the car and then im pretty much good to go.

hopefully i can get this thing to run right soon

got the wheel

Its relly not bad for a cheap ebay wheel, i figure its a china made copy of the high 6 bolt racing wheels.

Im going to run an NRG 2.5 quick release, adn to prevent it from being too close to me (a deep dish wheel with a quick release) im going to buy a vw hub that fits the right spine size of my steering column/shaft.  Im using the vw one because it is the shortest hub I could find.  I will then cut and weld a disc/ circular piece of metal with the necessary 6 bolt pattern onto the hub.  I think it should work pretty well.

Also, Im in the middle of lowering the front suspension (which required me to reindex the front torsion bars).  should have that done tomorrow assuming that im not slacking

steering wheel

Just bought this super awesome JDM steering wheel (kinda a momo knockoff).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648&item=190576434336&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT#ht_2125wt_1167
but its got the 6 bolt pattern, which allows you to run it like a momo.  and its got the wakaba sign, which i know know means that im a novice driver, lol.

Im going to buy a momo hub adapter with the 6 bolt pattern, and then Ill see how far it is way from my body.  hopefully its way too far because I want to run an NRG quick release but it its going to be too close with the quick release than I might cut and reweld the hub adapter to make it shorter so that the quick release will fit well.  they make short quick releases, bot those dont looks 1/4 as good as the NRG 2.5.

And id like to run a quick release so i can get in and out of the car comfortably (has a cage).
yup, thats whats been going on,
plus theres an air leak in the injection system that causing the car to idle at 2k rpms when the idle speed screw is on the lowest setting (that should kill the engine, i think)

well, well see how that goes, hopefully ill have it back on the road soon, plug i realized that the front ride height bolts are maxed out low which means that I will have to reindex the front torsion bars to lower it. free, yes, but not as easy as just having to adjust a bolt.

updates on the car

set the back ride height a couple day ago, gotta do the front now

got the quarter windows in.

put the injection system back in, after trying to find the vacuum leak.