Just got some new parts. Theyre megan racing nissan silvia tie rod ends. They are beefy, and use the heim style design, vs the oem which has a fixed bolt on it that bolts to the strut. Anyways, whit rod end is meant for use with lowered cars because it has spacing on top of the bolt so space the tie rods back down to horizontal when on a lowered car.
And the opening process
the tie rod ends
(please note the metallic blue paint and spacing on top of the bolt), but mostly the blue paint
For the sake of cost, logic, and usage or parts i already have, i will be going with a 2.5" exhaust rather than a 3". i already have a brand new 2.5" muffler, so i will be able to use that. It will consist of the headers i bought, bolted up to some flanges that I have to buy which I will weld to/make a 2.5" system out of which will go from 2-1 and then into the muffler and out. Should cut few db's and hp's, the best way to go. plus on a 3.0l na system, 3.0" is unnecessarily large, smaller, hotter pipe on that engine size will flow better
just bought these tie rod ends for my 911
i like them cause theyre pretty beefy, made by megan racing, and most of all, why i bought them is cause i lowered my car and i need tie rods with spacing capabilities
So im thinking, i wont be able to run good wheels (specs) with hub adapters. it would add another inch of negative offset (if you were to count it as part of the wheel) which means that the wheel would have to be about 17" by 10" with about +42 mm offset, which when combined with a 1 inch (25.4mm) hub adapter, would give it 16mm offset. +16 offset on a 17" by 10" wheel is something that i have confirmation that will fit with rolled fenders (it has been done before). and I think thats pretty much the widest anyone has done. now, if i were to run the XXR wheels that im looking at, they would be put at -5 offset in the back with the hub adapter, which probably wouldn't fit. there would be extra space on the inside edge of the tire and not enough space on the fender edge. i would need more offset than that if I were going to use a hub adapter.
Which Is why I think ive come to the conclusion of running different hubs, or modifying the stock hubs, for 5x114.3 hub pattern, this would mean drilling and threading new holes on the OEM hubs, which could be an option, or running nissan hubs if they have the same spline pattern, which I still need to figure out.
Like these (but I would try to grab a set from a maxima in a junk yard).
then id be working with the right hub pattern with no need for adapters. I would be able to run wider wheels, not that id want to, but id be able to run ten times better offsets. I would be running anywhere from a 17"x10" +16 to a 17"x10" +5 depending on how much I roll the outside fender. Yeah, that would be pretty frikken awesome
yep, just got a new phone, my old ones screen broke internally, cause its not cracked. and its really weird cause i just pulled it out of my pocket and it was cracked. anyway, my 2 yr plan was done so i got the new free phone with all the gear, its a sweet deal
also got a gps from my parents for christmas and its pretty sweet, but i havent used it yet cause the cigarette lighter on my car might be messed up, i think. but its what i want, because it has a big screen and i can use it for driving up at the mountain pass so you can see where the turns are and where the straight aways are even ay night. this is, imho, one of two of the most important night time accessories, the other being ebay hid xenons in the for light housings. my fog lights are already broken/ the dont work so im probably going to take out all of the wiring and run some stupid bring ebay xenons so that I can see well at night. (you only use these when nobodys on the road)
this makes me wanna get low cost mustang wheels. heres the thing though, i dont know if i could pull them off on a non-japanese car, cause they have quite a ton of dish to them. but theyre much more affordable than some of the name brand japanese wheels. i dunno, well see. i just know i want wheels with 5 x 114.3 lug pattern, cause 5 bolts better and thats the pattern that all the good wheels are using, in case I want to run other wheels down the road.
Yeah, so the polyurethane has become very stiff. Its been less than 48 hrs and their almost dried completely. Ill give it until saturday at least though before I put them on just to ensure that theyre totally good to go. I ground down/drilled the polyurethane where the bolt holes are, so I should be able to get the bolts in there easily now.
So yeah, now its just sitting and waiting until I can put them back in, and before I do I will paint them, of course. Im thinking of going to osh and buying some of the marking spray paint (florescent paint) and using that, cause it looks sick. I think ill pick one of those colors, probably green, and carry it throughout the car as a color on a lot of the parts, that would look sick.
Also thinking about slamming the range rover, but I dont want to buy wheels, and Im guessing slammed on stock wheels would like pretty terrible. But i need new shocks for that car so i might just do it now anyways. it will be an ebay shock set and some coils that i can find cheap that are super high spring rate
two in specific, and some other ones too.
rauh welt started with ae86's. they were the ones who started demon camber, stretched tires, even ziptying, i think. Yeah, the painters car, hes the youngest guy in the original rwb crew, back when they were all 86's. hes the only guy whos still with rwb thats only 86s to this day, whereas everyone else has gone to 911s. this is one of his two cars, his track prepped one
awesome feature done by Antonio Alvendia from speedhunters
super old but i look at it all the time, major inspiration for my car, love everything about it
the man on top of the 86 scene, Yamashita Koichi. he is the founder, owner, and leader of running free. what was a team, and became a company, is this group of 86ers who were one of the first 86 drift groups. his car is one of the best known and its running some crazy parts. Is company makes these kits that are really sick. Yeah, this is his feature on motormavens
So, I was planning on locking out the dizzy, so I started to take it apart.
And then I decided against locking it out, but rather I would adjust the dizzy to full timing advance and then retard it when necessary with the MSD. So I put it all back together
I finally rewired the heater and got it running. Put the wire straight to the battery because I just bypassed the fuse box cause the heaters got its own fuse.
Why did I do that, cause the tip of it melted
So yeah, I just cut it off and soldered on some wire.
and i kept the mounting spot I had before. very convenient
and then the motor mounts
Jacked the car up
Took off the motor mounts
Then I cleaned them with some dish soap, a toothbrush, and some steel wool
And then I polyurethane'd them
I basically attached the metal mount to the washers and made them solid, so now the rubber is stationary and it wont absorb stuff
I also stickered the back of my drivers seat
Ill try to get some more zumiez stickers this summer from my friend Conor who works there, and make my checker board pattern bigger
And heres my new catch can. Its a vintage coke bottle. It suits the car well, I think (its really old)
And I sent my shift coupler and the new bushings I bought for it off to a guy whos a member of the forum that Im on, he rebuilds them and makes precision bushings. Anyways, he put in the new bushings and he sent it back, it should be here on the next mail day (after all this holiday crap). Yeah, super nice of him to do that for me, he didnt even charge me anything.
So new coupler bushings, along with installing the other two bushings in the shift linkage and putting in a centering spring should help a lot. Yeah, ill be putting a centering spring in, it wont look good but ittl work.